{"id":1315,"date":"2025-12-18T16:10:02","date_gmt":"2025-12-18T13:10:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ozgurgulun.com\/?p=1315"},"modified":"2026-02-08T22:10:15","modified_gmt":"2026-02-08T19:10:15","slug":"mehmet-ali-pasa-camisi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ozgurgulun.com\/en\/mehmet-ali-pasa-camisi\/","title":{"rendered":"Mehmet Ali Pasha Mosque"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Merhaba de\u011ferli misafirlerim, bug\u00fcn Kahire\u2019nin kalbinde, Kavalal\u0131 Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa Camii\u2019ndeyiz. \u015eehrin sil\u00fcetini belirleyen bu muazzam yap\u0131, sadece bir ibadethane de\u011fil, ayn\u0131 zamanda M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019\u0131n modernle\u015fme \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn de sessiz bir tan\u0131\u011f\u0131d\u0131r. \u0130sterseniz bu “Alabaster” yani Kaymak Ta\u015f\u0131 Camii olarak da bilinen \u015faheserin hik\u00e2yesine birlikte dalal\u0131m.<\/p>\n

Kavalal\u0131 Mehmet Ali Pa\u015fa:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa, 1768 veya 1769 y\u0131llar\u0131nda bug\u00fcn Yunanistan s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131nda kalan Arnavutluk\u2019un Kavala \u015fehrinde d\u00fcnyaya gelmi\u015ftir. Babas\u0131 \u0130brahim A\u011fa olan bu azimli gen\u00e7 adam, Napolyon\u2019un M\u0131s\u0131r \u00e7\u0131karmas\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan b\u00f6lgedeki otorite bo\u015flu\u011funda y\u00fckselmi\u015f ve 1805 y\u0131l\u0131nda Osmanl\u0131 Devleti taraf\u0131ndan M\u0131s\u0131r Valisi olarak atanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Ancak o, s\u0131radan bir vali olman\u0131n \u00e7ok \u00f6tesine ge\u00e7erek M\u0131s\u0131r’\u0131 tam 45 y\u0131l boyunca, i\u00e7 i\u015flerinde serbest d\u0131\u015f i\u015flerinde Osmanl\u0131\u2019ya ba\u011fl\u0131, adeta ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z bir hanedanl\u0131k gibi y\u00f6netmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Kendisi sadece bir asker de\u011fil, ayn\u0131 zamanda M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019\u0131n modernle\u015fme \u00f6yk\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc yazan vizyoner bir liderdir. G\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc bir ordu ve donanma kurmakla kalmam\u0131\u015f; e\u011fitim, tar\u0131m, ticaret, t\u0131p, sanayi ve m\u00fchendislik gibi pek \u00e7ok alanda devrim niteli\u011finde reformlar yapm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. M\u0131s\u0131r’da yeni fabrikalar kurdurmu\u015f, modern okullar a\u00e7m\u0131\u015f ve hatta teknik e\u011fitim almalar\u0131 i\u00e7in Avrupa\u2019ya burslu \u00f6\u011frenciler g\u00f6ndermi\u015ftir. Bu \u00e7abalar\u0131yla M\u0131s\u0131r’\u0131 iktisadi ve bilimsel a\u00e7\u0131dan b\u00fcy\u00fck bir kalk\u0131nma s\u00fcrecine sokmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n

Yakla\u015f\u0131k 150 y\u0131l boyunca (1805-1952) M\u0131s\u0131r’a h\u00fckmedecek olan hanedan\u0131n kurucusu olan Pa\u015fa, ayn\u0131 zamanda bug\u00fcn hayranl\u0131kla izledi\u011fimiz bu muazzam “Alabaster” Camii’nin de banisidir. M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019\u0131 “ikinci bir \u0130stanbul” yapma hayaliyle yola \u00e7\u0131kan bu b\u00fcy\u00fck devlet adam\u0131, 1848 veya 1849 y\u0131l\u0131ndaki vefat\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan, bizzat in\u015fa ettirdi\u011fi bu mabedin bat\u0131 k\u00f6\u015fesindeki mermer sandukal\u0131 t\u00fcrbesine defnedilerek ebedi istirahatgah\u0131na \u00e7ekilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

Kahire\u2019nin bu g\u00f6rkemli tepesinden \u015fehre bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda g\u00f6rece\u011finiz tek yadigar bu cami de\u011fil elbette. Kavalal\u0131 Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa ve onun soyundan gelenler, M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019\u0131 adeta yeni ba\u015ftan in\u015fa ederek her k\u00f6\u015fe ba\u015f\u0131na birer m\u00fccevher b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015flar. Gelin, bu vizyoner hanedan\u0131n izinde Kahire ve \u0130skenderiye sokaklar\u0131nda k\u0131sa bir gezintiye \u00e7\u0131kal\u0131m.<\/p>\n

Saraylar\u0131n Zarafeti ve G\u00fcc\u00fc Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa, sadece ibadethaneler de\u011fil, devletin ihti\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 yans\u0131tacak saraylar da in\u015fa ettirmi\u015fti.<\/p>\n

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  • Harem Saray\u0131:<\/strong> 1826-27 y\u0131llar\u0131nda Kahire Kalesi\u2019nin i\u00e7inde in\u015fa edilen bu devasa yap\u0131, hanedan\u0131n \u00f6zel ya\u015fam alan\u0131yd\u0131. Bug\u00fcn M\u0131s\u0131r Askeri M\u00fczesi olarak hizmet veren saray, 25.000 metrekarelik alan\u0131yla tarihin en canl\u0131 \u015fahitlerinden biridir.<\/li>\n
  • Cevher Saray\u0131:<\/strong> Yine kale i\u00e7inde yer alan bu saray, 1813-14 y\u0131llar\u0131nda \u0130stanbul Bo\u011fazi\u00e7i’ndeki sivil mimari \u00f6rnek al\u0131narak yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. \u0130\u00e7indeki o me\u015fhur yald\u0131zl\u0131 ah\u015fap taht\u0131 ve Avrupa tarz\u0131 s\u00fcslemeleriyle Bat\u0131 sanat\u0131n\u0131n M\u0131s\u0131r’a giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131 gibidir.<\/li>\n
  • \u015eobra Saray\u0131:<\/strong> 1808’de in\u015fa edilen bu yazl\u0131k saray, \u00f6zellikle “Havuzlu K\u00f6\u015fk\u00fc” ile me\u015fhurdur. Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n s\u0131cak yaz gecelerinde mermer s\u00fctunlu galeriler aras\u0131nda dinlendi\u011fi bu mekan, tam bir “Do\u011fu fantezisi ile Avrupa l\u00fcks\u00fcn\u00fcn” harman\u0131d\u0131r.<\/li>\n
  • Ras el-Tin Saray\u0131:<\/strong> \u0130skenderiye’nin o ferah sahilinde y\u00fckselen bu saray, ailenin en eski ve en \u00f6nemli merkezlerinden biridir. \u0130talyan mimarlar\u0131n eliyle \u015fekillenen yap\u0131s\u0131, hanedan\u0131n hem y\u00fckseli\u015fine hem de h\u00fcz\u00fcnl\u00fc sonuna tan\u0131kl\u0131k etmi\u015ftir.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    \u015eehrin \u0130ncileri: Sebil-K\u00fcttablar<\/strong> Hanedan \u00fcyeleri, halk\u0131n su ihtiyac\u0131n\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131lamak ve e\u011fitimi desteklemek i\u00e7in \u015fehrin her yan\u0131na Barok ve Rokoko \u00fcslubuyla bezenmi\u015f zarif sebil-k\u00fcttablar serpi\u015ftirmi\u015flerdir.<\/p>\n

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    • Tosun Pa\u015fa ve \u0130smail Pa\u015fa Sebilleri:<\/strong> Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa, gen\u00e7 ya\u015fta kaybetti\u011fi o\u011flu Tosun Pa\u015fa ad\u0131na 1821’de, di\u011fer o\u011flu \u0130smail Pa\u015fa ad\u0131na ise 1828’de muazzam mermer kaplamal\u0131 sebiller yapt\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/li>\n
    • \u00dcmm-\u00fc Abbas Pa\u015fa Sebil-K\u00fcttab\u0131:<\/strong> 1867’de I. Abbas Hilmi Pa\u015fa’n\u0131n annesi taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan bu yap\u0131, tipik \u0130stanbul tarz\u0131n\u0131 M\u0131s\u0131r’a ta\u015f\u0131yan en zarif \u00f6rneklerden biridir.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Ayr\u0131ca ge\u00e7 d\u00f6nem eserlerinden olan ve 1898\u2019de in\u015fa edilen Sakakin Saray\u0131, adeta d\u00f6rt katl\u0131 bir d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn pastas\u0131n\u0131 and\u0131ran o g\u00f6rkemli mimarisiyle hanedan d\u00f6neminin son demlerindeki Avrupa etkisini t\u00fcm \u00e7\u0131plakl\u0131\u011f\u0131yla sergiler.<\/p>\n

      Kavalal\u0131 Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa ile Osmanl\u0131 Sultanlar\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki \u0130li\u015fki:<\/strong><\/p>\n

      Sevgili dostlar, gelin \u015fimdi de bu ta\u015flar\u0131n ard\u0131ndaki o sars\u0131c\u0131 siyasi dengeye, Kavalal\u0131 Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa ile Osmanl\u0131 Sultanlar\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki o “f\u0131rt\u0131nal\u0131” ama bir o kadar da sayg\u0131l\u0131 ili\u015fkiye yak\u0131ndan bakal\u0131m.<\/p>\n

      Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n Osmanl\u0131 Padi\u015fahlar\u0131 ile olan m\u00fcnasebeti, tarihin g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc en karma\u015f\u0131k ve ilgi \u00e7ekici g\u00fc\u00e7 dengelerinden biridir.<\/p>\n

      Kavalal\u0131 Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa, 1805 y\u0131l\u0131nda Osmanl\u0131 Devleti taraf\u0131ndan M\u0131s\u0131r Valisi olarak atanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Ancak o, s\u0131radan bir vali olman\u0131n \u00e7ok \u00f6tesine ge\u00e7erek; M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019da i\u00e7 i\u015flerinde serbest, d\u0131\u015f i\u015flerinde ise Osmanl\u0131\u2019ya ba\u011fl\u0131 bir hanedanl\u0131k kurmu\u015ftur. Kaynaklar\u0131m\u0131z, onun bu durumunu “Osmanl\u0131\u2019dan siyasi a\u00e7\u0131dan ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f gibi hareket etmesine ra\u011fmen m\u00fcstakil bir krall\u0131k kurdu\u011fu” \u015feklinde tarif eder. M\u0131s\u0131r’\u0131 45 y\u0131l boyunca y\u00f6neten Pa\u015fa, \u0130stanbul ile olan ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k dozunu s\u00fcrekli art\u0131rm\u0131\u015f ve M\u0131s\u0131r’\u0131n modernle\u015fmesi yolunda radikal ad\u0131mlar atm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

      Aradaki gerilime ve Pa\u015fa’n\u0131n “m\u00fcstakil bir devlet” gibi hareket etmesine ra\u011fmen, Padi\u015fah\u0131n otoritesini resmen tan\u0131maktan da geri durmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Bunu, bug\u00fcn i\u00e7inde bulundu\u011fumuz bu muazzam camide bile g\u00f6rebiliriz:<\/p>\n

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      • Caminin avlu giri\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131n \u00fczerindeki kit\u00e2bede d\u00f6nemin padi\u015fah\u0131 Sultan Abd\u00fclmecid\u2019in ismine ve Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n sembol\u00fc olan ay-y\u0131ld\u0131z motifine yer verilmi\u015ftir.<\/li>\n
      • Hatta Pa\u015fa’n\u0131n yapt\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 Tosun Pa\u015fa ve \u0130smail Pa\u015fa sebillerinde de Sultan II. Mahmud\u2019un tu\u011fralar\u0131 gururla sergilenmektedir. Bu durum, siyasi \u00e7eki\u015fmelere ra\u011fmen Osmanl\u0131 me\u015fruiyetine olan ba\u011fl\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n sembolik olarak devam etti\u011fini g\u00f6sterir.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        Baz\u0131 kaynaklar Pa\u015fa’n\u0131n kendi g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc simgeleyen \u00f6zel bir armas\u0131 oldu\u011fundan bahseder. Caminin i\u00e7indeki o g\u00f6rkemli ah\u015fap minberin \u00fczerinde, Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n hanedanl\u0131k armas\u0131 olan “<\/strong>g\u00fcne\u015f \u0131\u015f\u0131n\u0131“<\/strong> motifi yer almaktad\u0131r. Bu arma, onun M\u0131s\u0131r’daki mutlak g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fcn ve hanedan\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6rsel bir imzas\u0131 niteli\u011findedir.<\/p>\n

        K\u0131sacas\u0131 Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa, \u0130stanbul\u2019dan gelen mimarlarla \u0130stanbul usul\u00fc camiler yaparken bile kendi ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k r\u00fcyas\u0131n\u0131 bu mermerlere nak\u015fetmi\u015f, ancak Padi\u015fah\u0131n ismini de ba\u015f\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde ta\u015f\u0131maya devam etmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

        Caminin Tarih\u00e7esi:<\/strong><\/p>\n

        Her \u015fey 1830 y\u0131l\u0131nda, M\u0131s\u0131r Valisi Kavalal\u0131 Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa’n\u0131n emriyle ba\u015flad\u0131. Pa\u015fa, Kahire Kalesi i\u00e7erisinde bulunan eski Meml\u00fck saraylar\u0131n\u0131 y\u0131kt\u0131rarak yerine kendi g\u00fcc\u00fcn\u00fc ve yenilik\u00e7i ruhunu simgeleyecek bu camiyi yapt\u0131rmak istedi. Bu i\u015f i\u00e7in \u0130stanbul\u2019dan \u00f6zel olarak Mimar Yusuf Bo\u015fnak’\u0131 getirtti. Ancak Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6mr\u00fc bu eserin tamamland\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rmeye yetmedi; 1848 veya 1849\u2019daki vefat\u0131na kadar yap\u0131n\u0131n ancak kaba in\u015faat\u0131 bitirilebilmi\u015fti. Caminin mermer kaplamalar\u0131, o me\u015fhur alt\u0131n yald\u0131zl\u0131 s\u00fcslemeleri ve Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n huzur i\u00e7inde yatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 mezar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7evreleyen pirin\u00e7 parmakl\u0131klar, halefleri Hidiv I. Abbas Hilmi ve Sa\u2018\u00eed Pa\u015fa d\u00f6nemlerinde tamamlanabildi. Y\u0131llar sonra, 1930’lu y\u0131llarda ana kubbede ciddi \u00e7atlaklar fark edilince, Kral Fuad ve Kral Faruk d\u00f6nemlerinde kubbeler tamamen s\u00f6k\u00fclerek orijinal haline sad\u0131k kal\u0131narak yeniden in\u015fa edildi.<\/p>\n

        Mimari \u00d6zellikler<\/strong><\/p>\n

        Caminin \u00f6n\u00fcnde durdu\u011funuzda kendinizi M\u0131s\u0131r’da de\u011fil de \u0130stanbul\u2019un o me\u015fhur sel\u00e2tin camilerinden birinin \u00f6n\u00fcnde gibi hissedebilirsiniz; \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc bu yap\u0131 plan olarak \u0130stanbul\u2019daki \u015eehzade ve Sultan Ahmed camilerini \u00f6rnek alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

        Kare planl\u0131 bu devasa yap\u0131n\u0131n kalbinde, d\u00f6rt b\u00fcy\u00fck fil aya\u011f\u0131na oturan 21 metre \u00e7ap\u0131nda ve tam 52 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011finde muazzam bir merkezi kubbe bulunur. Bu ana kubbeyi destekleyen d\u00f6rt yar\u0131m kubbe ve k\u00f6\u015felerdeki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kubbeler, yap\u0131ya o klasik Osmanl\u0131 piramit g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc verir. \u015eehrin her yerinden g\u00f6r\u00fclen o ince uzun iki minaresi ise tam 84 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011fiyle M\u0131s\u0131r’\u0131n en y\u00fcksek minareleridir.<\/p>\n

        \u0130\u00e7eri girdi\u011finizde duvarlar\u0131n 11 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011fe kadar bembeyaz “albaster” mermeriyle kapl\u0131 oldu\u011funu g\u00f6receksiniz; yap\u0131ya o me\u015fhur ismini veren de i\u015fte bu mermerdir. Klasik \u0130slam sanat\u0131n\u0131n aksine burada Bat\u0131 etkisindeki Barok ve Rokoko tarz\u0131 \u00e7i\u00e7ek desenleri, asma salk\u0131mlar\u0131 ve alt\u0131n yald\u0131zl\u0131 bezemeler hakimdir.<\/p>\n

        Caminin avlusu da en az harimi kadar etkileyicidir; 47 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck kubbeyle \u00f6rt\u00fcl\u00fc revaklar\u0131n ortas\u0131nda sekizgen bir \u015fad\u0131rvan yer al\u0131r. Avlunun kuzeybat\u0131 duvar\u0131nda ise ilgin\u00e7 bir hik\u00e2yesi olan demir bir saat kulesi g\u00f6receksiniz. Bu saat, 1845 veya 1846 y\u0131l\u0131nda Fransa Kral\u0131 Louis Philippe taraf\u0131ndan, Paris\u2019teki me\u015fhur Luksor dikilita\u015f\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019ya hediye edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

        Son olarak, caminin bat\u0131 k\u00f6\u015fesine do\u011fru bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda, Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n mermer sandukas\u0131n\u0131 ve onu koruyan o zarif pirin\u00e7 parmakl\u0131klar\u0131 g\u00f6rebilirsiniz. Bu cami, hem Kahire’nin sil\u00fcetindeki en g\u00f6rkemli imza hem de Osmanl\u0131 ile M\u0131s\u0131r’\u0131n mimari sentezinin en e\u015fsiz meyvesidir.<\/p>\n

        Saat Kulesi:<\/strong><\/p>\n

        Sevgili dostlar, avlunun kuzeybat\u0131 revak\u0131na do\u011fru bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda, o revaklar\u0131n ortas\u0131nda y\u00fckselen demir kuleyi fark etmi\u015fsinizdir; i\u015fte o kulenin ard\u0131nda diplomatik bir takas\u0131n ve biraz da sitem bar\u0131nd\u0131ran olduk\u00e7a ilgin\u00e7 bir hik\u00e2ye yatar.<\/p>\n

        Bu saat kulesi, 1845-1848 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Fransa Kral\u0131 Louis Philippe taraf\u0131ndan Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019ya bir dostluk ni\u015fanesi olarak hediye edilmi\u015ftir. Ancak bu hediye kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131ks\u0131z de\u011fildir; Mehmed Ali Pa\u015fa, bu jeste kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k olarak Luksor Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde duran ve bug\u00fcn Paris\u2019teki me\u015fhur Place de la Concorde meydan\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcsleyen o devasa II. Ramses dikilita\u015f\u0131n\u0131 Fransa\u2019ya g\u00f6ndermi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n

        Kulenin mimari detaylar\u0131na biraz daha yak\u0131ndan bakacak olursak \u015funlar\u0131 g\u00f6rebiliriz:<\/p>\n

        Bak\u0131r ve demirden yap\u0131lan bu kule, Neo-Gotik ve Oryantalist \u00fcsluplar\u0131n adeta bir dans\u0131 gibidir.<\/p>\n

        Kulenin en \u00fcst kat\u0131nda, belki de d\u00f6nemin ruhunu yans\u0131tan bir \u00e7ay odas\u0131n\u0131n (tearoom) bulunmas\u0131, onu s\u0131radan bir saat kulesinden \u00e7ok daha fazlas\u0131 yapar.<\/p>\n

        Hik\u00e2yenin en ironik taraf\u0131 ise, Paris\u2019teki dikilita\u015f y\u00fczy\u0131llara meydan okurken, Kahire\u2019ye g\u00f6nderilen bu saatin uzun y\u0131llar boyunca bozuk ve \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmaz halde kalm\u0131\u015f olmas\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n

        Neyse ki bu sessizlik sonsuza dek s\u00fcrmemi\u015f; Kral Faruk d\u00f6neminde yap\u0131lan titiz restorasyon \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131yla bu “h\u00fcz\u00fcnl\u00fc” saat yeniden tamir edilerek Kahire\u2019nin vaktini tutmaya devam etmi\u015ftir. Bazen en g\u00f6rkemli hediyeler bile arkas\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmayan di\u015fliler ve devasa dikilita\u015flar\u0131n g\u00f6lgesini bar\u0131nd\u0131rabiliyor 😊<\/p>\n

        [ays_quiz id=’17’]<\/p>\n